Bosnia and Herzegovina: the journey of the bullets

of Course, under fire is conditional. But on the height of your eyes can be loosened by the bullet scars on buildings, houses, trees — everything will be so clearly speak about the horrors experienced by this country, that the whistle of bullets in the here and now will seem almost real.
nevertheless, if you're in Croatia in area of Dubrovnik, do not be lazy to drive to Bosnia and Herzegovina. To Sarajevo to get will be far away, but to visit the city of Mostar in Herzegovina will be very interesting.
It can be done in one day and not very tiring.

a View of destroyed buildings in Mostar
Main thing is to choose a good Agency to organize trips. We were not very lucky: caught a guide, who knew Russian badly and schytivtsi information from the worksheet. But even this did not prevent to feel the atmosphere of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
This territory, which the war in the Balkans, cut off from the sea, is extremely picturesque. From the border with Croatia you almost all the way to Mostar, accompanied by the Neretva river. Incidentally, the area bordering all the same Croatia, the locals call Silicon valley.
That is depressing, as is the abundance of the Eastern cemeteries along the road and destroyed by the bullets and shells of abandoned buildings. Settlements with a few people here, like people are afraid of these places. But the bright sun and nature picture, promising a revival of life.


By the way, you certainly will arrive at the small town of Počitelj. In the middle Ages it was a serious fortress, and nobody would never think to call it "town". Built in the XIV century to protect the road from the Neretva to the sea. The main enemy of the fortress was then the Ottoman Empire, but because Počitelj had to be strengthened. However, today she looks very Asian, and not only in the Hammam, located on its territory, but, in fact, openly Oriental architecture, and the masonry underfoot. This is understandable: the fortress city fell before the onslaught of the Turks in the XV century.
From the territory of the town of breathtaking views, so don't be lazy to climb up on the pavement. By the way, another remarkable feature of the city is still almost completely hidden behind the walls of the fortress, and all around pretty sultry desert landscape, which is downright blows in the direction of cool ancient walls.
More interesting facts about the history of Bosnia and Herzegovina you can find on the project Rambler/class.


Mostar is in Herzegovina, and consequently in the Islamic part of the country. A few years ago, it does not bother the locals, but because around every corner could be seen and miniskirts, and bikini tops, and microsort. Today there is a tendency to return to basics, so many women voluntarily wear the veil, but in General the people of the city look European. You can not say about the Mostar. In the city, the main scenic attraction which is, of course, the bridge feel more in the East than in Europe.
However, this feeling is not quite right. Watch — Eastern market, but no one invites not Intrusive, nothing vparivaet, not traded. And so universally, as if this city took and got all that annoying East European, and left what we love about Oriental countries. Mostar, like a picture, a little toy, but in any case not superficial. In addition to the breathing time here feels the same tragedy that throughout the country it is read in small round pock marks on buildings, vacant lots with rusted‑in-place concrete skeletons of buildings, even in the dust on the roads, which over the years have not weathered particles of gunpowder.
however, here I want to be compassionate and not be sad. And even more to admire. And watch and absorb. My favorite here is the black masonry of stones with the edge upwards, peculiar to these places.
don't forget there is also a historic district, Brankovac with houses built in Ottoman style, the Blue mosque Mostrara, the house of Pasha, and, of course, bridges. And be sure to give the debt tolerance of the local population: here like to coexist with each other mosques, Orthodox and Catholic churches.
On the way back I'd drop in to the factory for the production of trout. Fresh fish is always good, especially if you are around come down from the mountains waterfalls and such landscapes in Bosnia mass.